Bao Down to the Bao Brewhouse

Bao Brewhouse, located at 1317 14th Street in downtown Denver, is an Asian fusion/Chinese street food eatery that oozes character and charm the likes of which you don’t see very often. Bao opened its  doors in November of 2020 in this unique space that has quite a colorful past. This historical building (built in 1883) has been host to a number of establishment including Soapy Smiths, The Euclid Hall, and way, way back, it was an upscale house of ill repute for people with deep pockets and the need for discretion…

The rustic, red-brick exterior invites diners up a stately staircase and into a two-level interior that boasts a casual dining area and bar on the first floor, and up another set of stairs, the deliciously swanky, dimly lit, dining room that omits vibes the likes of which one might encounter in the side streets and back-alley marketplaces of Hong Kong, where street food is king. 

The interior is beautifully decorated with rich colors and truly unique touches like the centerpiece of the whole place, which looks like a Chinese Lantern Festival with large, red, glowing paper globes suspended from the ceiling. Denver’s culinary scene has improved tremendously in the past number of years, and with the Michelin Guide having recently arrived in Colorado, the selection and the competition is certainly getting competitive, and Bao Brewhouse is most definitely on top of their game.

The creative-minded and long-time hospitality trio behind the conception and evolution of Bao has been a collaborative effort of owners Michael and Evelina Swift and the gastronomic mastermind of Chef Paul Sananikone.

Sananikone is a second-generation chef who learned to cook from his parents. Sananikone’s father taught the art of hibachi cooking, and his Laos/Thai mother imparted her culinary heritage on her son. With a solid base, Chef Paul decided that he wanted to become a more diversified chef by integrating methodologies and other cultural influences into his cooking. Sananikone spent time in Austin, Texas, where he worked with some of the most prominent chefs from all different walks of the culinary scene. He was executive sushi chef in Aspen and was also part of the Aspen Food & Wine Festival.

“Through the culmination of all of my experiences, I have developed my eye and my senses for a culinary collaborative of artistic expression,” he says. “During my travels and the never-ending desire to taste, sip, and savor all that exists, I have visited over 11 countries around the world from which I draw inspiration that I can express through food.”

Despite his worldliness, Chef Paul is chill and down to earth. He’s the kind of guy you want to sit down at the bar with and hear his amazing stories while noshing on a dish of pork xiao long bao soup dumplings or a steaming bowl of spicy peking duck noodle soup accompanied by one of Kevin’s beautiful cocktails or a house-made beer of cup of tea.

Chef’s diverse background is evident in the imaginative, delicious, and ever-evolving menus. From sweet pork belly Bao to Philly Cheesesteak dumplings to Kobe beef dumplings, garlic fried rice to yuzu tuna tartar, each creation is beautifully presented, intoxicatingly fragrant and oh-so-delicious. Chef is always playing with new recipes and creative ideas to invite guests to a truly special dining experience.

The powerhouse owners of Bao Brewhouse, Evelina and Michael Swift, bring an impressive collection of culinary experience to the table. Evelina was born in Lithuania and moved to the U.S. at the age of 10 where her family landed in Chicago. She thrived in the hospitality world, where she managed some of the top restaurants and nightclubs in the city. In 2019, she brought her 10-plus years of hospitality experience to Colorado, where she and her husband, Michael Swift, worked in high-end establishments in Apsen. They have now opened Bao Brewhouse. She says, “My passion for hospitality will only grow moving forward, and by opening new and unique concepts, I hope to deliver amazing culinary experiences for our guests.”

Michael Swift has over 20 years of experience in the restaurant industry. His career began with a bartending gig in Philadelphia as a young and eager 21-year-old. After discovering his love for the industry, Michael went back to school to get a degree in Hospitality Management.

As he worked his way through Penn State tending bar, cooking, and hotel sales/marketing, he learned all the multi-faceted ins and outs of the hospitality and restaurant business. Michael says, “Over the years, my dedication grew exponentially as I traveled, lived all over the country, and worked for a wide variety of hospitality companies. My passion for Asian food and culture led me to work in multiple Asian eateries.”

When his path led him to Aspen, Michael operated as a general manager at a top Asian restaurant, where he worked closely with the Chinese owner to bring the establishment to the highest level of success. He had the opportunity to travel with the owner to China, where his education in hospitality continued, and he began envisioning his own restaurant concepts.

Now, because of all of the amazing life and work experiences that Evelina, Michael, and Chef Paul have had, they have now come together to make lifelong dreams come true through the creation, innovation, and never-ending imagination and evolution that goes into every aspect of Bao Brewhouse. 

“Bao Brewhouse is a multi-concept gathering place where all are welcomed with open arms. A place for self-expression, inclusivity, and living out loud be it through amazing food, crazy good craft cocktails, or a cold pint of beers” says Evelina. “Or by coming to shaking your booty at t our monthly late night dance parties (Boogie Nights) where everyone get free Bao buns at midnight. For those with a really big appetite for dim sum, we have Dump Em Out  Tuesdays where diners can indulge in all you can eat dim sum.  The Bao welcomes all and encourages open minds, unique characters,  and a spirited sense of culinary adventure.” Come one, come all to the Bao!

Photos courtesy of Ash Trego.